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FDM 3D printers from China + upgrades, is it worth it?

Hey,

I would like to introduce you several modifications that we can use in budget printers from China, like Ender 3 / Tevo Tarantula / Anycubic Mega etc.. Cheap printers have one very big advantage, we can modify them and modify and modify, but also we will have to perform calibrations, corrections and repairs. There is a very large number of upgrades to buy and do yourself. Our imagination really limits us here. Below I present a few possibilities that will allow us to get a quite interesting solution at a price lower than the top printers on the market.

Let's start from the end and the question: "is it profitable to modify the printer?" Yes, but not all printers, the design of some Printer does not allow you to increase stiffness, which in total will not allow us to achieve perfection at very high speeds. So I would limit the number of modifications to the most important ones which gives you good quality for a good money.

If you want to modify and modify, you will see that the cost may exceed even 600-700 $, where for the price of 800 $ you will get a really perfectly 3D printing printer Prusa MK3S, nothing else you need to start with. In addition, for a price of 600-700 $, you can look for a printer with higher rigidity than Wanhao, Anycubica, Creality or another company. The fact we will not have modifications at first, but I assure you that raw print is also enough.

To sum up, you like mechanic and do smth yourself , buy budget printer. You want to get best quality and don't cry every 5 minutes, buy Prusa or one of the top printer like Ulimaker, Zortrax etc.

A list of popular and budget printers from China 

Here I would like to mention that I chose the printers rather randomly, and the full list of sets can be found at the bottom. These are sets based on the purchase of all components and order 3D printed components, in any company or friend who has good FDM, nothing more. You install such a set from the beginning together with modifications and necessary changes in the software. Changes in the software will certainly not be easy, but there are plenty of guides, videos and forums where you will find help and answers. Alternatively, write to us regarding this matter, we will try to help you by e-mail and in person.
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Ender 3 / Ender 3 Pro - 150/200$

Manufacturer specification:

  • print size 220x220x250mm
  • FFF / FDM print type
  • accuracy: 0.1 mm
  • amount of material: 1
  • filament diameter: 1.75 mm
  • printing speed: 180 mm / s
  • nozzle temperature 255 ° C
  • table temperature 110 ° C

Proposed modifications:

  • BLTouch
  • SKR V1.3 + TMC 2208
  • Double Z axis
  • Titan or BMG extruder
  • Tensioners
  • Glass

Final price: from $ 200 for the basic version to $ 550 for the version with the full list of modifications.

On average: $ 400

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Tevo Tarantula / Tarantula Pro - 200$

Manufacturer specification:

  • print size: 235x235x250mm
  • FFF / FDM print type
  • accuracy: 0.1 mm
  • amount of material: 1
  • filam diameter. 1.75 mm
  • printing speed 150 mm / s
  • nozzle temperature 260 ° C
  • table temperature 110 ° C

Proposed modifications:

  • BLTouch
  • Double Z axis
  • Titan or BMG extruder
  • Tensioners
  • Glass


Final price: from $ 200 for the basic version to $ 450 for the version with the full list of modifications.

On average: $ 350

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Anycubic Mega Zero - 200$

Manufacturer specification:

  • print size 220x220x250mm
  • FFF / FDM print type
  • accuracy: 0.1 mm
  • amount of material: 1
  • filam diameter. 1.75 mm
  • printing speed 150 mm / s
  • nozzle temperature 250 ° C
  • table temperature 110 ° C

Proposed modifications:

  • BLTouch
  • SKR V1.3 + TMC 2208
  • Double Z axis
  • Tensioners
  • Glass


Final price: from $ 200 for the basic version to $ 450 for the version with the full list of modifications.

On average: $ 350

Elements of printers that you can modify

Extruder

This is one of the most important elements of the printer. He is responsible for bringing the filament to the heating block.

We have a very large number of extruder versions available on the market, which can be mounted in both type bowden and direct versions

In addition, there are extruders with several heating blocks, which allows you to print two or more types of filament simultaneously. It is very useful when printing very complex elements, where we have to use a large number of supports. We can then print the element with better materials. However, supports made of inferior or soluble material so as to easily remove supports.

You can also find modifications to the extruder we currently have in our printer, such as metal instead of plastic
The price of extruders on Chinese portals ranges from a few dollars $ 20 to $ 100. The most popular and in my opinion the best currently on the market can be distinguished:
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Original price: 120 $
Replacement price: 50-70 $
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BMG Bondtech

Original price: 150 $
Replacement price: 80-100 $
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Mosquito

Original price: 200 $
Replacement price: 80 $

Heating block

For this elements is very important to keep stable temperature. Thanks to this, we will avoid quality errors in the printouts.

There are a lot of types on the market. The most important of them is the material it is made of, such as Copper, aluminum, bronze. Each of these materials has different thermal properties, so it's worth choosing the right one for you. I described the replacement of such a heating block in my previosuly post.

It is important to check what type of thermocouple we have when replacing. There are several and each is mounted differently in the block. It is important that you do not forget to buy a thermocouple when you replace heating block.

         The price of heating block ranges from less than a dollar "0.76" to several "8 $". So this is not an exorbitant basket and can really help.
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Z axis - bearings, mounting etc.

In most printers, the Z axis in the upper part is not fixed, but at first this is not a big problem, but over time each of you will notice that this is not natural and possible additional fixing at the top would be helpful. In this case, we can simply print a special elastic mount or buy a bearing block. In the second case, we must align and assemble the entire Z-axis mechanism very well, otherwise there may be resistance on Z movement and you can see visible "artifacts" on the printouts.
In addition to the mount itself, we can add a second Z axis, which will allow to use direct drive systems in the extruder. In addition, the smoothness and freedom of movement will be much better.
Cost 10 - 50 $
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Heat insulating underlay

This element is located under the printer table. Its task is thermal insulation of the table. Thanks to these pads, the table temperature is stable. Of course, this is not a remedy for all problems with the table, but it will certainly allow a more stable temperature distribution and easier maintenance of the set value. On the market we will find many solutions from cork to aluminum foam pads. From my perspective, special thermal insulation paper also works very well, so paper, more specifically a special sheet with a thickness of 3-5 mm used for thermal insulation up to 1800st. C

Cost 3-5$
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Belt tensioner

Very useful items. When printing, it is important that the straps are tight. For this it is worth investing in belt tensioners. However, if someone does not want to spend money, there are also tensioner designs to print. They perform just as well.
The type of tensioner really depends on the printer we have. Each strap is attached in a different way, so there must be a different tensioner.
Cost  2-10$
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Automatic table height measurement and calibration

Is this a necessary upgrade? Of course, it all depends on the operator's skills and experience. At the beginning I would be able to invest in such improvements as BLtouch, inductive sensor, endstop or anything else that will allow calibration with accuracy to several "hundreds".
Personally, I recommend BLtouch, it is probably currently the most popular solution, with the help of which we will perform a full mapping of our table. In most cases, the tables are slightly curved, which does not allow perfect calibration, in which case I recommend using an additional glass sheet.
Cost 15-50 $
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Cleaning filter

During 3D printing, the material liquefies. And each material has its own temperature at which the process works best. It is important to get this filament clean without any dust, because they do not melt the same and your nozzle will be clogged. You can buy it, but a piece of sponge from a kitchen washer is also enough just needs to be installed well.
Cost 1$ or less
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Motherboard and step drivers

The motherboard is the brain of the entire 3d printer. It is responsible for sending signals to engines, fans etc., because it controls all operations is a very important element,
There is originally a 16 bit disc in the Ender 3. And you can see it when printing arches. A larger number of bits helps divide the arc into more straight segments, i.e. the arc will be closer to the circle. In addition, better motherboards ensure quieter operation and can have more inputs, e.g. for fans.
There are also discs that come with a touch screen. And this solution can be replaced in a printer.
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SKR V1.3 + TMC 2208/2209

Price: 100$ 
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MKS V1.4 + TMC 2208

Price: 50$
I have shown only some of the modifications that can be done to these 3 printer and more other. There are literally plenty of them for any Chinese printer. Of course, we can design them and print them ourselves. Improving your printer really pays off. Thanks to them, we can achieve printouts at a very high level and we will not spend a lot of money on a professional printer for several thousand.
For me, it's the best fun to change our printer, look for solutions that will improve prints, solve our problems. As in computer games, we develop our vehicles, characters, weapons, so here we can live improve our printer, which is a really cool experience. Answering the question in the title. In my opinion, it pays off 🙂 We will make the printer we dreamed of and we will achieve the quality of professional printouts at a much lower cost.
Personally, I would choose TEVO Tarantula PRO or Tevo Tarantula RS and applied the minimum necessary modifications such as Z axis reinforcement, additional glass for the table, thermal insulation and extruder change. And what do you think about it?
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Ender 3 / Ender 3 Pro 

Proposed modifications:
  • BLTouch
  • SKR V1.3 + TMC 2208
  • Double Z axis
  • Titan or BMG extruder
  • tensioners
  • Glass
Final price: from $ 200 for the basic version to $ 550 for the version with the full list of modifications, bought directly from the manufacturer.
Average: $ 400

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Tevo Tarantula / Tarantula Pro - 200$

Proposed modifications:
  • BLTouch
  • Double Z axis
  • Titan or BMG extruder
  • tensioners
  • Glass
Final price: from $ 200 for the basic version to $ 450 for the version with the full list of modifications, bought directly from the manufacturer.
Average: 350 $

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Anycubic Mega Zero - 200$

Proposed modifications:
  • BLTouch
  • SKR V1.3 + TMC 2208
  • Double Z axis
  • tensioners
  • Glass
Final price: from $ 200 for the basic version to $ 450 for the version with the full list of modifications, bought directly from the manufacturer.
Average: 350 $

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